{"id":583,"date":"2023-11-29T02:33:00","date_gmt":"2023-11-29T02:33:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/pleats-please-creative-pleats-from-mariano-fortuny-to-issey-miyake\/"},"modified":"2023-12-20T10:04:45","modified_gmt":"2023-12-20T10:04:45","slug":"pleats-please-creative-pleats-from-mariano-fortuny-to-issey-miyake","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/pleats-please-creative-pleats-from-mariano-fortuny-to-issey-miyake\/","title":{"rendered":"Pleats, please! Creative pleats from Mariano Fortuny to Issey Miyake"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><em>Pleats and draperies have always been a certain status-defining element in clothing, because of the element of abundance and richness they bring: some designers, however, have gone so far as to make them a key stylistic feature.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<!--more-->\n\n\n\n<div id=\"ez-toc-container\" class=\"ez-toc-v2_0_73 counter-hierarchy ez-toc-counter ez-toc-grey ez-toc-container-direction\">\n<div class=\"ez-toc-title-container\">\n<p class=\"ez-toc-title\" style=\"cursor:inherit\">Table of Contents<\/p>\n<span class=\"ez-toc-title-toggle\"><a href=\"#\" class=\"ez-toc-pull-right ez-toc-btn ez-toc-btn-xs ez-toc-btn-default ez-toc-toggle\" aria-label=\"Toggle Table of Content\"><span class=\"ez-toc-js-icon-con\"><span class=\"\"><span class=\"eztoc-hide\" style=\"display:none;\">Toggle<\/span><span class=\"ez-toc-icon-toggle-span\"><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"list-377408\" width=\"20px\" height=\"20px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" fill=\"none\"><path d=\"M6 6H4v2h2V6zm14 0H8v2h12V6zM4 11h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2zM4 16h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2z\" fill=\"currentColor\"><\/path><\/svg><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" class=\"arrow-unsorted-368013\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"10px\" height=\"10px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" version=\"1.2\" baseProfile=\"tiny\"><path d=\"M18.2 9.3l-6.2-6.3-6.2 6.3c-.2.2-.3.4-.3.7s.1.5.3.7c.2.2.4.3.7.3h11c.3 0 .5-.1.7-.3.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7zM5.8 14.7l6.2 6.3 6.2-6.3c.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.7-.3h-11c-.3 0-.5.1-.7.3-.2.2-.3.5-.3.7s.1.5.3.7z\"\/><\/svg><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<nav><ul class='ez-toc-list ez-toc-list-level-1 ' ><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-1\" href=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/pleats-please-creative-pleats-from-mariano-fortuny-to-issey-miyake\/#The_Art_of_Pleating_in_Womens_Clothing_A_Historical_Journey_through_the_Centuries\" title=\"The Art of Pleating in Women&#8217;s Clothing: A Historical Journey through the Centuries\">The Art of Pleating in Women&#8217;s Clothing: A Historical Journey through the Centuries<\/a><ul class='ez-toc-list-level-3' ><li class='ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-2\" href=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/pleats-please-creative-pleats-from-mariano-fortuny-to-issey-miyake\/#Ancient_Egypt_and_Greece_the_origins_of_drapery_in_fashion\" title=\"Ancient Egypt and Greece: the origins of drapery in fashion\">Ancient Egypt and Greece: the origins of drapery in fashion<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-3\" href=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/pleats-please-creative-pleats-from-mariano-fortuny-to-issey-miyake\/#The_Middle_Ages_folds_between_sacredness_and_Gothic_style\" title=\"The Middle Ages: folds between sacredness and Gothic style\">The Middle Ages: folds between sacredness and Gothic style<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-4\" href=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/pleats-please-creative-pleats-from-mariano-fortuny-to-issey-miyake\/#Mariano_Fortuny_and_the_eternal_charm_of_the_Delphos_gown\" title=\"Mariano Fortuny and the eternal charm of the Delphos gown\">Mariano Fortuny and the eternal charm of the Delphos gown<\/a><ul class='ez-toc-list-level-3' ><li class='ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-5\" href=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/pleats-please-creative-pleats-from-mariano-fortuny-to-issey-miyake\/#Ancient_Greece_as_a_source_of_inspiration\" title=\"Ancient Greece as a source of inspiration\">Ancient Greece as a source of inspiration<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-6\" href=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/pleats-please-creative-pleats-from-mariano-fortuny-to-issey-miyake\/#The_Delphos_gown_a_masterpiece_of_pleats_and_luminosity\" title=\"The Delphos gown: a masterpiece of pleats and luminosity\">The Delphos gown: a masterpiece of pleats and luminosity<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-7\" href=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/pleats-please-creative-pleats-from-mariano-fortuny-to-issey-miyake\/#Madame_Gres_the_fabric_sculptress\" title=\"Madame Gr\u00e9s: the fabric sculptress\">Madame Gr\u00e9s: the fabric sculptress<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-8\" href=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/pleats-please-creative-pleats-from-mariano-fortuny-to-issey-miyake\/#Issey_Miyake_Pleats_Please\" title=\"Issey Miyake: Pleats, Please!\">Issey Miyake: Pleats, Please!<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"The_Art_of_Pleating_in_Womens_Clothing_A_Historical_Journey_through_the_Centuries\"><\/span>The Art of Pleating in Women&#8217;s Clothing: A Historical Journey through the Centuries<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Pleats in women&#8217;s clothing represent a timeless element of elegance and style. This practice, which has ancient roots, has evolved over the centuries, influencing fashion in surprising ways. In this article, we will explore the journey of pleats, starting with the draperies of ancient Greek garments, through medieval glamour, to the modern revolutions brought about by the likes of Mariano Fortuny and Issey Miyake.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Ancient_Egypt_and_Greece_the_origins_of_drapery_in_fashion\"><\/span>Ancient Egypt and Greece: the origins of drapery in fashion<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Already in ancient Egypt, pleated fabrics were intended for the upper classes, considered worthy of queens and pharaohs. Pleating, still present in some garments found in the Valley of the Kings, was obtained by soaking the fabric in a liquid rubber solution and then compressing it with a very heavy instrument, which fixed the pleats permanently in the fabric.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/TUNICA-EGIZIA.webp\" alt=\"Egyptian tunic\" class=\"wp-image-571\" style=\"width:360px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/TUNICA-EGIZIA.webp 600w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/TUNICA-EGIZIA-480x480.webp 480w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 0px) and (max-width: 480px) 480px, (min-width: 481px) 600px, 100vw\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Egyptian tunic.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>In ancient Greece, pleats in clothes were more than just an aesthetic matter; they were an art form. Women&#8217;s dresses were often made of lightweight fabrics, such as wool and linen, which were skilfully folded and draped to create flowing shapes. These draperies not only gave the clothes a regal appearance, but also allowed for fluid movement, suitable for the dances and social events of the time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/\/Auriga-di-Delphi-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Charioteer of Delphi, pleated dress\" class=\"wp-image-567\" style=\"width:340px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Auriga-di-Delphi-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Auriga-di-Delphi-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Auriga-di-Delphi-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Auriga-di-Delphi-980x1470.jpg 980w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Auriga-di-Delphi-480x720.jpg 480w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Auriga-di-Delphi.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Charioteer of Delphi<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"The_Middle_Ages_folds_between_sacredness_and_Gothic_style\"><\/span>The Middle Ages: folds between sacredness and Gothic style<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>In the Middle Ages, pleats in women&#8217;s dresses took on a different feel. Heavier fabrics and more structured silhouettes characterise the clothing of this era. Clothes were often decorated with elaborate pleats around the waist and sleeves, creating an image of majesty and sacredness. Gothic-style pleats, with vertical and horizontal lines, were particularly popular, helping to emphasise the verticality of the female figure. Obviously, the evolution of the folds continues over the centuries, always finding new declinations. Think for instance of the return of neo-classical style dresses typical of the 18th century.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"574\" height=\"745\" src=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Simon-Marmion.jpg\" alt=\"Simon Marmion (France, c. 1425-1489). Detail from Scenes from the Life of Saint Bertin, 1459. Oil on panel; 58.5 x 146.4 cm. Berlin: Gem\u00e4ldegalerie der Staatlichen Museen, 1645A. Source: SMB\" class=\"wp-image-553\" style=\"width:340px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Simon-Marmion.jpg 574w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Simon-Marmion-480x623.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 0px) and (max-width: 480px) 480px, (min-width: 481px) 574px, 100vw\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Simon Marmion (France, c. 1425-1489). Detail from Scenes from the Life of Saint Bertin, 1459. Oil on panel; 58.5 x 146.4 cm. Berlin: Gem\u00e4ldegalerie der Staatlichen Museen, 1645A. Source: <a href=\"https:\/\/recherche.smb.museum\/detail\/863047\" target=\"_blank\" data-type=\"link\" data-id=\"https:\/\/recherche.smb.museum\/detail\/863047\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">SMB<\/a><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Mariano_Fortuny_and_the_eternal_charm_of_the_Delphos_gown\"><\/span>Mariano Fortuny and the eternal charm of the Delphos gown<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>However, we can say that in modern times the name that first became inextricably linked to pleated fabric is that of Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo, an artist, inventor, costume designer, painter and set designer of Spanish origin born in 1871, who lived in Venice between the end of the 19th and the first half of the 20th century.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Fortuny left an indelible mark on the history of fashion with his iconic creation: the Delphos gown, first shown in 1907. This extraordinary garment is a hymn to timeless elegance, a symbol of Fortuny&#8217;s craftsmanship and his ability to fuse it with inspiration drawn from ancient Greece.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Ancient_Greece_as_a_source_of_inspiration\"><\/span>Ancient Greece as a source of inspiration<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Fortuny was fascinated by ancient Greece and its artistic heritage. His quest for perfection led him to carefully study ancient Greek draperies, trying to capture the magic of those pleated fabrics. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>French archaeologists working at Delphi, north of Athens, had recently discovered a bronze statue dating back some 500 years before Christ. The figure was called &#8216;The Charioteer&#8217; and was dressed in elegant pleated robes. The Delphos gown was inspired by the draped costume of this and other Greek statues. Fortuny and his wife Henriette Negrin, who specialised in fabric design, not only designed a dress that perfectly captured the mood of turn-of-the-century Paris, but also invented and patented a pleating technique that gave the Delphos dress its unique fluidity and elegance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"620\" height=\"349\" src=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/delphos-met-2016-.jpg\" alt=\"Delphos gowns on show at the MET in 2016.\" class=\"wp-image-563\" style=\"width:640px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/delphos-met-2016-.jpg 620w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/delphos-met-2016--480x270.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 0px) and (max-width: 480px) 480px, (min-width: 481px) 620px, 100vw\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Delphos gowns on show at the MET in 2016.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"The_Delphos_gown_a_masterpiece_of_pleats_and_luminosity\"><\/span>The Delphos gown: a masterpiece of pleats and luminosity<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Fortuny&#8217;s Delphos gown is an extraordinary garment, combining luxurious hand-worked pleats and vibrant colours. The silhouette of the dress is long, slender and fluid, creating an effect of grace and movement when worn. The real innovation lies in the folding technique: the fabrics, often silk, were subjected to a pleating process that permanently fixed the folds, giving the garment a fixed yet flexible structure. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>What made it an iconic garment, however, was the perfect timing in relation to the era in which it was conceived. Women were freeing themselves from complicated corsets that altered the shape of the female body and restricted its movements, the trend was towards more fluid, less structured garments that slid over the body, accompanying its lines and facilitating its movements, while retaining elegance and refinement. The Delphos gown was the answer to all these requirements.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"820\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/\/delphos-gown-isadora-duncan-1907-820x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Isadora Duncan wearing a Delphos gown in 1907.\" class=\"wp-image-565\" style=\"width:360px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/delphos-gown-isadora-duncan-1907-820x1024.jpg 820w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/delphos-gown-isadora-duncan-1907-240x300.jpg 240w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/delphos-gown-isadora-duncan-1907-768x959.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/delphos-gown-isadora-duncan-1907-980x1224.jpg 980w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/delphos-gown-isadora-duncan-1907-480x600.jpg 480w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/delphos-gown-isadora-duncan-1907.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 820px) 100vw, 820px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Isadora Duncan wearing a Delphos gown in 1907.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>The creation of a Delphos gown involved a series of complex craftsmanship steps. Fortuny, also known for his inventions, had developed a device for dyeing and printing textiles, enabling the creation of intense and vibrant colours. Dyeing took place after pleating, adding depth and brightness to the folds of the fabric.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In un primo momento le creazioni di Fortuny venivano vendute esclusivamente a Parigi, sebbene realizzate a Venezia, poi il mercato si estese anche agli Stati Uniti e la lista delle clienti divenne impressionante, da Eleonora Duse a Peggy Gugghenheim, da Sarah Bernhardt a Isadora Duncan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"442\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/peggy-delphos-gown-.jpg\" alt=\"Peggy Gugghenheim wears a Delphos gown.\" class=\"wp-image-555\" style=\"width:360px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/peggy-delphos-gown-.jpg 442w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/peggy-delphos-gown--221x300.jpg 221w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 442px) 100vw, 442px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Peggy Gugghenheim wears a Delphos gown.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Mariano Fortuny died in 1949, but his legacy in the field of fashion endures. The &#8216;Delphos gown&#8217; continues to be a symbol of timeless elegance and craftsmanship and is still produced and sold in small runs. His creations have inspired generations of subsequent designers, recognising Fortuny&#8217;s genius in combining the ancient and the modern, the technological and the artistic. In 2016, the Metropolitan Museum in New York dedicated an exhibition to him, and also in the TV series Downton Abbey and more recently in the films that continue the story, one of the main characters, Lady Mary Crawley, has repeatedly worn Delphos gowns.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"943\" src=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/\/Lady-Mary-Crawley-1024x943.jpeg\" alt=\"Lady Mary Crawley\" class=\"wp-image-557\" style=\"width:640px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Lady-Mary-Crawley-1024x943.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Lady-Mary-Crawley-300x276.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Lady-Mary-Crawley-768x707.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Lady-Mary-Crawley-1080x994.jpeg 1080w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Lady-Mary-Crawley-980x902.jpeg 980w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Lady-Mary-Crawley-480x442.jpeg 480w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Lady-Mary-Crawley.jpeg 1260w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Lady Mary Crawley<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Madame_Gres_the_fabric_sculptress\"><\/span>Madame Gr\u00e9s: the fabric sculptress<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Born in Paris in 1903, Germaine Emilie Krebs, known as Alix, was one of the greatest seamstresses of the 20th century. Known by the stage name Madame Gr\u00e8s, she liked to say: &#8220;I wanted to be a sculptress. For me, it is the same thing to work with fabric or stone.&#8221; This &#8216;sculptural&#8217; aspect will be particularly present in his creations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Madame Gr\u00e8s began her career as a theatre costume designer, where she learned how to handle fabric and create three-dimensional shapes. In 1935, she opened his own fashion house in Paris, where she began to experiment with pleating. Also present in his case was an attraction to ancient Greece and an icy, <a href=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/is-the-minimalist-style-about-to-return\/\" data-type=\"link\" data-id=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/lo-stile-minimalista-sta-per-tornare\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">minimal<\/a> ante litteram. During the Second World War, the house had to close for a period and reopened in 1942 under the simple name of Gr\u00e8s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"235\" height=\"440\" src=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Gres-1955.webp\" alt=\"Madame Gr\u00e8s, dress.\" class=\"wp-image-575\" style=\"object-fit:cover\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Gres-1955.webp 235w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Gres-1955-160x300.webp 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 235px) 100vw, 235px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Madame Gr\u00e8s, dress.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Madame Gr\u00e8s&#8217; pleated dresses were characterised by clean, simple lines that allowed the fabric to fall naturally over the body. Gr\u00e8s often used silk jersey, a soft, flowing fabric that lent itself perfectly to pleating. Gr\u00e8s was particularly interested in creating clothes without seams, or with a minimum number of seams, typical of the traditional costume of various peoples.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I suoi abiti erano spesso monocromatici, in colori neutri come il nero, il bianco o il grigio. However, Gr\u00e8s also did not disdain the use of brighter colours, such as red or blue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Madame Gr\u00e8s&#8217; dresses were worn by famous women all over the world, including Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Kennedy and Brigitte Bardot, and there were numerous collaborations with film and theatre. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The influence of Madame Gr\u00e8s is still present in contemporary fashion today. Her pleated dresses have been a source of inspiration for many designers, including Issey Miyake, and also for photographers such as Richard Avedon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Gr\u00e8s was a revolutionary figure in the fashion world. It helped create a new style, which enhanced the natural beauty of the female body. Her pleated dresses are still considered masterpieces of tailoring.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"900\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/MADAME-GRES.jpeg\" alt=\"Pleated dresses by Madame Gr\u00e8s\" class=\"wp-image-573\" style=\"width:640px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/MADAME-GRES.jpeg 900w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/MADAME-GRES-480x320.jpeg 480w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 0px) and (max-width: 480px) 480px, (min-width: 481px) 900px, 100vw\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Pleated dresses by Madame Gr\u00e8s.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Issey_Miyake_Pleats_Please\"><\/span>Issey Miyake: Pleats, Please!<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>After World War II, womenswear experienced another folding revolution, this time led by Japanese designer Issey Miyake. Miyake, born in Hiroshima in 1938, is known for his quest for innovation through the use of advanced textile technologies. His training started in Japan, continued in Paris, where he moved in the 1960s, and then in New York. He had the opportunity to collaborate with designers such as Guy Laroche, Hubert De Givenchy and Geoffrey Beene. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>His &#8216;Pleats Please&#8217; line, launched in the 1980s, introduced permanent pleats into fabrics, allowing clothes to retain their pleated shape even after washing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The peculiarity of the textile folding technology developed by Miyake is that the fabric is first sewn by making the garment, then the folds are made, supported by layers of paper, and finally the garments are placed in a steam press, which imparts a permanent character to the folds. Finally, with the layers of paper removed, the clothes are ready to be worn. Miyake combined technology with minimalist aesthetics, creating garments that embrace the concept of practicality and modernity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"822\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/\/Issey-Miyake-822x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Issey Miyake, &quot;Pleats, please&quot; line dress.\" class=\"wp-image-559\" style=\"width:640px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Issey-Miyake-822x1024.jpg 822w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Issey-Miyake-241x300.jpg 241w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Issey-Miyake-768x957.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Issey-Miyake-980x1221.jpg 980w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Issey-Miyake-480x598.jpg 480w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Issey-Miyake.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 822px) 100vw, 822px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Issey Miyake,<\/em>Pleats, please line dress<em>.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>The use of a versatile material such as polyester, together with resins and polymers, gives the pleated fabric strength and flexibility. This technique not only guarantees unprecedented durability but also creates a three-dimensional surface that captures light in a unique way, giving the garments an almost sculptural appearance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>What makes Miyake&#8217;s pleated dresses so distinctive is their versatility. Questi capi sono progettati per adattarsi a una variet\u00e0 di corpi e stili, grazie alla capacit\u00e0 del tessuto di estendersi e adattarsi. Moreover, the lightness of the fabric allows unprecedented freedom of movement, combining aesthetics with functionality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Issey Miyake has broken new ground in the fashion world, proving that technological innovation can coexist with uncompromising elegance. Miyake&#8217;s legacy is evident not only in his iconic creations but also in the inspiration he provided to successive generations of designers, who continue to explore the limitless possibilities of pleated clothing. Miyake&#8217;s fashion is a bold statement that the future of fashion can be pleated, folded and shaped through the connection between traditional craftsmanship and advanced technology.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"628\" height=\"790\" src=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Flying_Saucer_dress_by_Issey_Miyake_Japan_1994.jpg\" alt=\"Flying Saucer' dress, by Issey Miyake, 1994.\" class=\"wp-image-577\" style=\"width:340px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Flying_Saucer_dress_by_Issey_Miyake_Japan_1994.jpg 628w, https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Flying_Saucer_dress_by_Issey_Miyake_Japan_1994-480x604.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 0px) and (max-width: 480px) 480px, (min-width: 481px) 628px, 100vw\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Flying Saucer&#8217; dress, by Issey Miyake, 1994.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Pleats and drapes have always been elements characterizing a certain status in clothing, due to the element of abundance and richness they bring.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":560,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[25,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-583","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-details","category-non-categorizzato"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/583","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=583"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/583\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":592,"href":"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/583\/revisions\/592"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/560"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=583"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=583"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thelifeofclothes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=583"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}